Carla Huston, BS/Equine Science, 12 years in the Equine Industry.

 Equine articles published locally and nationally

 

Making Hay

By Carla Huston, BES

Living as we do in the Midwest, feeding hay is a necessity, certainly in the winter and for some all year. Unfortunately, many horse people do not know what constitutes good horse hay. Instead they rely on traditional feeds, the advice of other unknowledgeable owners and availability of product to determine their buying choices. A number of criteria must be evaluated, though, to establish which hay will be best for the horse. A general understanding of the factors that affect quality will aid in selecting a hay to feed your own herd.

There are two types of plants that are harvested into hay. Legumes, clover and alfalfa, for example, have bacteria in the root nodules that use nitrogen from the air and produce higher levels of protein. Legume hays also have a higher energy content, as well as calcium and phosphorus levels. Alfalfa and clover hay are very palatable, and horses will readily consume this feed. Unfortunately, because of its high nutritional plane it takes very little to satisfy the average horse's nutritional needs. To keep the horse from overeating very small portions must be fed. Consequently, many individuals are left with unsatisfied hunger because they cannot keep their stomachs full. Legume hays are also more expensive than grass hays. For the owner it is usually an unnecessary expense since the excess nutrients are eliminated by the horse in the urine. High-performance athletes may benefit from a ration containing alfalfa or clover hay, since their energy requirements are higher. The protein and mineral levels are still high, though, and should be considered when designing the horse's diet.

Grass hays include timothy, brome, Kentucky bluegrass, oat and barley, to name a few. These types are generally more in line with the adult horse's requirements. Harvested properly, these hays are also very palatable, and the horse readily consumes them. It is possible to feed more without overloading the horse with calories or other nutrients. The animal, therefore, is kept busy with the hay, mimicking more closely the natural pattern of grazing. Grass hays are less expensive, so even though the horse eats more of it, the ration is still cheaper to feed. A horse on a maintenance diet or in light work can probably subsist on grass hay alone, provided it is of high-quality. For those at a higher level of activity the addition of grain (determined according to the increased need) can provide the extra energy.

Hay quality can be judged by many factors; the most important is the plant's stage of maturity at cutting. The stem contains the fiber while the leaves hold the other nutrients. As the ratio of stem to leaf content increases so does the fiber content. As the plant then grows from the vegetative to the reproductive stage, the palatability, protein content and digestibility decrease. For maximum nutrient content, legumes are harvested when a few flowers start to appear in the field. Grasses are harvested when seed heads start to appear. Many cuttings may be produced every season and can vary in nutritional values. The number of cuttings depends on the region of the country it is grown and the length of the growing season. The first cutting often contains more weeds and has less nutritional value than later cuttings.

Weather conditions at harvest also contribute to the quality of the hay. Rain and sunlight have a large impact on the finished product. Excessive rainfall has many detrimental effects on the cut plant. When overly wet, leaves can be beaten from legumes, soluble carbohydrates are leached out and the hay is packed down so it does not dry properly. If baled in a damp condition, mold is certain to develop, and the bale is in danger of spontaneous combustion from internal fermentation. Too much sunlight can cause a loss of vitamin A, by bleaching color from the plant.

Knowledgeable evaluation of hay is critical for the horse owner to purchase good quality at a fair price. First check for flowers or seed pods; this will indicate the stage of maturity at harvest. There should not be any mature seeds or plants in full bloom. Then estimate the leaf to stem ration. The leafier, the higher the percent nutrient, while the stemier, the higher percent fiber. Color and smell are also indicative of hay quality. Check for a bright green color that shows minimal bleaching and loss of nutrients. The hay should have a fresh clean smell. Any sign or smell of mold or dust eliminates that bale as a horse feed. Horses are very sensitive to those particles, and ingestion of them could cause many physical problems. Also undesirable are any foreign materials such as sticks, weeds, dirt, paper, etc. These are dangerous to the horse and a waste of money. If buying a large lot of hay, it may be wise to send a sample to a laboratory for accurate analysis of nutrient content. When the hay is of top quality it is more valuable; be prepared to pay more for it than for a load that is not as good. However, paying more per ton for top quality hay will save the buyer money in the long run, since less can be fed to maintain a level of nutrition and less is wasted from dust, mold or trash.

With a knowledgeable eye and an understanding of what constitutes good horse hay, horse owners can supply their animals with a nutritional feed for the cold winter months. Many horses can subsist quite well on a ration strictly of grass hay. Watch the horse's condition as the winter progresses and use him as the guideline for how much to feed.

 

 

Feeding Right

By Carla Huston BES

With the advent of commercial feeds and complete rations available through most tack stores and feed mills, designing a balanced ration for your horse need not be a time-consuming or difficult chore. With a basic understanding of the nutrients required by every horse, the different sources for nutrition and what your horse's stage of life is and his amount of work, each owner can confidently maintain good health.

All horses require the six basic nutrients: carbohydrates, fats, protein, vitamins, minerals and water. Carbohydrates and fat provide the majority of energy to the horse; they are supplied mostly through concentrates. Protein is the building block for the horse, used to form muscle, hormones, hoof and hair, among other tissues. The horse requires vitamins in very small amounts to help as catalysts that prompt reactions in the body tissues. The fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E, and K) are synthesized by the horse, while the water-soluble ones (B-complex and C) must be found in the diet. Minerals are required in varying amounts and are in three categories: major, macro and trace. Since they are found in the soil, different regions of the country have different dietary mineral requirements. Water is a crucial nutrient that must always be provided by a fresh and clean source. Requirements vary by environment, feed and work.

The common feeds can be separated into three categories: roughages, concentrates and supplements. Both pasture and hay are roughages, and are generally high in fiber and low in energy. Legume hays (alfalfa, clover, etc.) are higher in protein, energy, calcium and vitamin A. They must be fed carefully as these amounts may unbalance an otherwise sound ration. Grass hays (timothy, brome, Kentucky bluegrass, etc.) are usually more affordable and contain nutrients closer to the horse's requirements. Hay quality is a key element to horse health. Most important, the hay must dust and mold free; their presence may cause respiratory and digestive problems. Weeds also are undesirable, as they add woody material that has a low palatability and digestibility. The stage of growth also affects hay quality. As the plant matures the protein content, digestibility and palatability declines and fiber content increases. Check the hay for its stem to leaf ratio; the stemmier it is the later in its growth stage it was harvested. Look for a high proportion of leaves, as that is where the highest percent of nutrients is. One other criterion to hay quality is storage. The bales should be kept dry and unexposed to sunlight. Nutrient content decreases through the first six months of storage, but if storage conditions are adequate the loss should then plateau.

Pasture is an excellent source of roughage, as it allows the horse to follow its natural inclination to continually graze, but it is also subject to varying quality. Nutritional value depends on the type of grass present and growing season. Early in the season the grass has a high-moisture and low-energy content. As the season continues the moisture content drops, while the nutrients increase. The geographical area will determine what plants will grow healthily, generally there should be a mix of one or two grasses with one or two legumes. If possible the pasture should be split into two or more, smaller ones so that they can be rotated, keeping overgrazing and trampling at a minimum. Good management practices will contribute to a healthy and valuable pasture. Fertilizers can help keep the proper balance between grasses and legumes, but must be selected according to each region's soil type. Irrigation may help pastures that would otherwise be stressed by lack of water. If the horses are not grazing one part of the pasture, move the water supply, salt or feed to encourage its use. The pasture can also be mowed at regular intervals to keep weeds under control, and picking up manure will help decrease parasites and promote even grazing.

Concentrates are the grains in the ration, which are higher in energy and lower in fiber than roughages. Oats, barley and corn are the most common grains fed to horses. These grains are all palatable to the horse, with varying levels of energy and protein. Mixed together they make an excellent ration. The kernels are usually processed by rolling, crimping or cracking. It is then easier to chew and the digestive juices have better access to the kernel. However, after processing the nutrients will deteriorate faster in storage. Each grain has a different density so they need to be fed by weight, not volume, to be accurate, especially when mixing your own ration or changing the diet. Commercially prepared feeds are easily fed and are of a consistent mix. The owner must be able to accurately read the feed label to evaluate the concentrate for their horse and feed the proper amount.

Supplements are fed to increase the nutritive quality of the ration. The four types are protein, vitamin, mineral and a combination of the three. Protein supplements may be fed when the horse has a high protein requirement, animals that are growing, lactating or in the later stages of pregnancy. Most rations contain excess protein; as protein is expensive to feed, it is more economical to watch your horse's requirements and keep to them. Vitamin supplementation is rarely needed, and it is very uneconomical to feed an excess. Carefully evaluate the ration before adding a vitamin supplement. Injectable vitamins should be used only under a veterinarian's authority to treat a disease or a deficiency. Mineral supplements are often needed to balance the mineral content in the ration. Most horse owners provide a salt block to their horses, while others have a trace mineral block available. The horses will usually regulate their intake of free-choice minerals.

When balancing a ration it is crucial to know the horse's stage of growth and amount of work produced. Each class has very specific requirements that must be met, and it is the owner's responsibility to see that the feeds are proper. Not only must the concentrate portion and roughage portion be balanced individually, but the entire diet, including supplements, must be balanced together.

Understanding where your horse's needs lie and carefully monitoring feed quality and intake can help the conscientious owner provide the best nutrition possible. Keeping the diet consistent in both feed type and timing and making changes gradually can further ease feeding worries. Every owner should have ready access to the National Research Council's Nutrient Requirements of Horses to help them evaluate their animal's needs and provide every nutrient in the proper amount and form. Healthy horses are more productive and easier to care for, not to mention happier. Proper nutrition is the first step in managing your horse's to keep them in peak condition.

 

Supplemental Knowledge

By Carla Huston, BES

Today's horse market holds a bewildering array of supplements that claim to be essential to your horse's good health, or promise to cure a variety of ailments. Deciding which claims are justified and which are the products of the copywriter's imagination can be both a lengthy process and an expensive one. Manufacturers have plenty of competition for the horse owner's dollar, and it is often easier to follow the company's every recommendation rather than doing the necessary research to determine if your horse really needs a particular product. For those who do not understand the horse's requirements it is easy to be swayed by the advertisement words; backed with knowledge of what the products really do for the horse the owner can make informed choices about where to spend his money.

A salt block is one of the simplest and most essential equine supplements. The sodium and chloride provide many functions in the horse's body; they contribute to the fluid and acid-base balance, nerve impulses and muscular movements. The requirement for each individual is variable, dependent on environmental temperature, water intake and exercise level. Free access salt should be provided. A horse will consume the appropriate amount, provided adequate water is available; in the absence of a suitable supply of water one may overeat. With resumed water intake the result is a loose bowel.

Another common and important supplement for the horse is a trace mineral block. Unlike the salt block that is white, the trace mineral one is red and contains the essential minerals required by the horse's body in very small amounts. Some of those included are copper, zinc, iodine, iron and selenium; the amount needed in the horse's diet is expressed in parts per million (ppm). The amounts of these trace minerals required again varies by individual. Growing foals, lactating mares and pregnant mares have different needs from the mature horse. Another predisposing factor is the bioavailability of the minerals, meaning the efficiency with which the animal absorbs and utilizes the minerals. A third factor is the amount of minerals found in the soil the horse is grazing or from which the hay was produced. For this reason it is very important to feed a balanced ration. Free access to a trace mineral block will generally provide the proper amounts assuming the rest of the diet is balanced for the individual.

Many horse owners add a protein supplement to their horses' diets. For animals with a high-protein requirement - growing foals, lactating mares, and mares in the late stage of pregnancy - the additional supplementation may be indicated. Common protein supplements are alfalfa, soybean meal, legume pellets, milk products and dried brewer's yeast. However, most rations contain excess protein. There is a mistaken assumption on many people's part that as the horse's work load increases or as outside temperature decreases the protein requirement goes up. Additional protein is not harmful to the horse and some of the excess is converted to energy. Nitrogen is a product of the conversion process and is eliminated from the body via urine (urine output is increased as is the ammonia smell). But protein is an expensive nutrient to feed, and it makes more financial sense to increase the energy provided by the diet and keep the protein levels close to the recommended amount for the individual.

Biotin is a currently popular supplement for the horse. It is a part of the B-complex vitamins, a group of ten water-soluble vitamins. Many believe that supplementation of biotin to the horse's diet will promote hoof growth and cure hoof ailments. The normal horse, though, has sufficient biotin syntheses by the intestinal bacteria at a high enough level that a supplement is not required. The only time a biotin supplement may be necessary is with a horse that has a reduced intestinal function. This may be an older animal, one with an intestinal illness or one that has been on long-course antibiotics. Some feed companies automatically add biotin to their commercial feeds and charge the consumer accordingly. However, it may be wiser to feed a ration that provides the required nutrients and add an outside source of biotin as your veterinarian or farrier prescribes.

In the last decade a new food supplement has hit the market that has veterinarians, farriers and owners impressed by its actions. Methyl-sulfonyl-methane (MSM) is a source of bioavailable sulfur, a nutrient with assorted uses in the animal body, one of the most important being the ability to keep tissues elastic. It is most often used by owners searching for a therapy for arthritic horses or lameness problems. There is little scientific evidence of its efficacy, but anecdotal reports are very promising. It should not be considered a cure-all, even though claims may be made about its multiple uses. It is still essential that the owner investigates all possible causes of the discomfort and consults a veterinarian for diagnosis and therapeutic prescriptions.

There are many other supplement products on the market. The "flex" products are a chondroitin source that claims to act on joints and elastic tissues to promote flexibility. Many companies have begun marketing herbal supplements that contain kelp, rose hip and a sprinkling of vitamins, minerals, biotin and probiotics, and are designed to affect hoof growth, hair quality, weight gain and energy level. Other supplements are made up of individual vitamins to address a specific malady - nervousness, stamina, etc. Often, in the owner's attempt to cover all the bases of equine nutrition and performance, they top feed more supplements than there is grain in the base ration. Some of these supplements may even contraindicate one another. If a little is good, more is not better.

The important thing to remember is most of these supplements are categorized as nutritional additives, and therefore, are not under Food and Drug Administration influence. Limited scientific testing is usually done. While none of these products are dangerous to the horse themselves, it is dangerous to rely on them for health care in place of routine veterinary checks, proper daily maintenance, good nutrition, clean environment and professional farriery. Take the manufacturer's words with a grain of salt; advertisements are designed to sell product and may contain a fair amount of hyperbole. Always consult with professionals before starting your horse on a new additive.

 

Which Way: Ideal or Optimal

By Carla Huston

Raising and caring for a horse requires the owner to follow one of two concepts: developing and handling the animal in a way that is ideal for that particular individual, or managing him so that the demands placed on him follow a generic pattern that does not account for the differences between horses, optimal. In this context, ideal implies controlling the factors that contribute to a horse's general health, and the result is in the animal's best interest. The other method, however, involves pushing the horse to limits that may not be the healthiest for him, even when the short-term result indicates otherwise. It is the horse's long-term well-being that is the goal.

One of the earliest decisions between these two concepts comes when the foal begins eating his own ration. At this time the owner must develop a diet for the youngster that will fulfill his nutritional requirements. But it is also possible to feed a ration that will encourage growth that is too rapid. When a ration is designed primarily for accelerated growth it often becomes unbalanced, and the problem becomes twofold. First, the imbalance in nutrients, particularly with minerals, interferes with the horse's metabolism and affects the development of tendons, ligaments and bones. Second, the high-energy diet often puts more weight on the foal's frame than is healthy and the stress can be very damaging. An ideal growth pattern is one that allows the young horse to develop at a natural rate of gain that doesn't stress the joints and support structures. Feeding a proper diet will help avoid some of the problems foals encounter, such as epiphysitis and osteochondrosis. Following a more moderate program will mean the weanling and yearling will not be as developed as their peers who were pushed for early, fast growth, however, as maturity approaches the horse will be healthier, having gone through the stages of development in the right sequence and at the correct time.

Another aspect of this debate also relates to the young horse, the start of training under saddle. It has become common practice to begin schooling a horse as a long yearling or a two year old, and to expect him to be finished as a three or four year old. At this time, though, he is just reaching physical and mental maturity. Some animals at two have reached enough size that they appear ready to start training; yet it is important to remember that the growth plates in the bones have not completely closed, and the joints can be easily damaged by too much repetitive work. Just because the horse appears full-grown, there is still a great deal of development that must be completed. These young horses are also immature mentally. Their attention span is short, and they can be easily confused when confronted with too much information. Many training problems that arise later can be traced back to early schooling that was rushed, or steps that were skipped to quickly reach a desired result. Ideally, the owner can wait until the young horse is closer to maturity before starting him under saddle, and then can move slowly through the levels of training. This eliminates many of the "holes" found in older horse that are sent to be reschooled. Delaying training until the horse is physically stronger will also prevent some of the maladies that affect horses as they age. Arthritis, ringbone and sidebone are a few of the conditions that may cause lameness in relatively young animals, and in many cases may be partially attributed to the intensity of the work underwent as a youngster. For example, the European method of training generally calls for starting a horse at the age of four or five and the finished horse is one nearing his teens, if then. Many horses remain in competition until their late teens, even at the international level. This method requires more patience on the part of the owner/rider, but the dividends are well worth it when you have a sound, usable horse in his twenties.

Hoof care is one more area where the owner must choose the method by which they will handle their horse. It has become a common belief that the horse must have four perfectly round hooves that all point straight ahead, despite the conformation of the individual animal. This arrangement may be aesthetically pleasing to the human eye, but rarely serves the horse best. The feet are designed to support the horse's body mass, and therefore grow to where the weight is distributed. When the hooves are trimmed or shod to change them from the natural position the result will eventually be detrimental to his health and way of moving, even though the appearance is more "normal." An ideal hoof for a particular horse is one allowed to remain as it naturally grows, trimmed and balanced to maintain that position. Consequently, if a horse has some rotation in a joint or the column of bone he will be toed-in or toed-out to some degree. To correct that deviation by straightening the hoof will place stress on the other structures. The horse will remain functional with this alteration for a while, but over time problems will develop, often causing a variety of lamenesses. It is also important to let the hoof develop a thick wall with the necessary flares. Filing the outer wall down until it is perfectly symmetrical and small will alter how the foot bears the horse's weight.

Balancing human and horse interests is a constant challenge for the conscientious owner. It requires evaluation of the rider's goals and the horse's well-being and their compatibility. And it requires the ability to judge the long-term effects of today's actions. As horse lovers we all want our animals to be healthy and useful for decades, not just years, which means following the route that encourages the ideal development of the individual, rather than prescribing to a preconceived notion of how the horse should look and perform.

 

Winterize Your Horse

By Carla Huston BES

As the cold months of winter close around us concern for our horse's health and condition becomes more pressing. Aspects of management that are most important are temperature maintenance, nutrition and hoof care. By monitoring these, keeping your horse in top health can be easy and fairly trouble-free.

First let us look at keeping your horse's body temperature maintained at the proper level. Evaluate his living qualities; is he strictly pasture-bound, or does he split his time between a box stall and turnout. For horses that spend much time outdoors a windblock or shelter is necessary, whether it is natural or manmade. If your horse is both an indoor and outdoor kind be sure to watch your barn temperature and your animal's hair growth. During the mild early months of winter allow your horse to develop his thick coat and acclimatize to the dropping temps. Avoid blanketing during this time; you really are not helping your horse by preventing him from experiencing the changing weather conditions. As the season progresses, again watch how you use blankets. If your horse has been properly acclimated, they will be unnecessary; your horse should stay comfortable as the temperature falls provided he has an area in which to escape the wind and wet. The danger with blanketing outdoor-bound horses is they tend to slip causing rubbing and sores, and may become damp themselves, serving to chill the horse, not warm him. When you do blanket be sure someone is available to monitor the horse - adjusting if necessary, and removing if they become damp or the temperature rises.

Next check your feeding system and ration. This will depend a great deal on the amount of work your horse gets and his stage of maturity. Let us assume that the animal is mature and under light work. This type needs about 1 percent of his body weight per day in good quality roughage. A well-cured grass hay will be sufficient. You may add a grain concentrate to this if your horse requires one. If your horse starts losing condition increase the energy content of his ration - not the protein. Energy is calories, and that is where the horse will draw the fuel to maintain body heat. A horse will drink six to ten gallons of water per day; it is crucial that he has a fresh and clean source at all times. Through the colder months this will mean chipping the ice out at each feeding, a tedious but essential task. Salt and trace mineral blocks are necessary year round, so make certain your's is accessible, out of the snow and slop.

Finally, don't forget your hoof care. Growth of the hoof wall is determined by nutrition, and during the cold months this goes toward maintaining body condition, not excessive hoof growth. Consequently, many owners believe they can forget the farrier until spring arrives. This is not in the best interests of your horse. The hoof will probably grow at least a small amount and need balancing to keep its proper shape and avoid any unnatural wear. Even more importantly, the farrier will check the sole for bruising that may occur on the hard ground and ice. Many of the abscesses that develop in early spring can be attributed to undiagnosed bruises that started in winter. It is well-worth the cost of his visit to keep those four feet in superior condition. If you do heavy winter riding and like to keep your horse shod consider having your farrier apply a snowball pad. This is a plastic pad with a ball in the center that prevents snow and ice from building around the shoe. Regardless if your horse is shod or not, clean his feet daily. When snow lumps develop, walking on them could cause some tendon and joint strain. If your horse is shod during the riding season and you like to keep the shoes on during winter too, consider pulling them for four to eight weeks. This allows the heels to rest (constant shoe wear contributes to contracted heels) and the hoof wall to thicken slightly.

Winter does not have to be a time of little riding and much work. Instead allow nature to progress and continue a top management program. Then saddle up and have a good ride.